BALI: FROM THE PAST AND INTO THE FUTURE

Gaia Grant © 2000

 

For many years now, visitors have been drawn to Bali by the colourful culture and the fabulous tropical environment. What makes this island paradise particularly fascinating, however, is the enduring quality of the culture, and the way it expresses a harmony with nature. All around the world, Bali is unique as having the last dominant and still intact spiritual culture. Many of the traditional rituals and practices are just as alive today as they ever were, and the incredible strength and resilience of the Balinese people and their culture is a testimony to the richness of their faith. It is a fascinating exercise to delve into the past and discover some of the ancient origins of today's practices, to discover how Bali has become what it is today.

 

Looking back to Bali's historical roots, it is difficult to put together complete chronicles, since factual evidence has not been as clearly collected and documented as have religious details. At some stage in the past, however, an indigenous people populated the island. The descendents of these people, who now identify themselves as the Bali Aga, practiced animism. Even today the Aga people continue to worship the spirits of nature unaffected by the predominant Hindu religion, and Aga people now live only in the villages of Tenganan and Trunyan.

 

The earliest stone implements discovered on the island were found near Trunyan, possibly the work of Homo erectus people believed to have lived around 300,000 BC. Since little is known of the Balinese's stone age ancestors, however, any deeper exploration into the past usually starts with the bronze age. Bali's current dependence on rice cultivation most probably originated in this period. Ritual bronze objects, weaving, and dry rice cultivation were the legacies of the bronze age, and most likely came from people who sailed down from the north more than 3000 years ago, or around 1000 BC.

 

By 300 BC, historical records were being kept, which identify a more advanced and organised agrarian society. By then complex irrigation systems fed cascading rice terraces in wet rice cultivation. At this time rice was already well and truly established as the major food commodity in Bali, and as its abundance and importance increased, so did its value. Dewi Sri, the ancient rice goddess, was revered then as she still is today through cili figures given as offerings. Based on the large yields of rice crops, communities became more and more wealthy and developed into more sophisticated kingdoms, each with ruling rajahs.

 

One of the most dramatic and enduring developments in Bali's history came about when a form of Hinduism which had been introduced to Java was transported to and widely accepted in Bali in the first century. This religion was, in fact, a fascinating mix of Siwa Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism, both originally from India and brought to Indonesia by Indian traders. The climax of its success in Java came with the rise of the Majapahit Empire, but these Majapahits were eventually forced further east to Bali as the Muslim religion gained followers throughout Sumatra and Java. Some Javanese shamanism was thrown in en route, and by the time this religion reached Bali it eventually quite naturally merged with Bali's own form of animism. The foreign religion was welcomed enthusiastically by the Balinese, who saw it as a further step to civilisation. Any discussion of arts or architecture in Bali now usually refers to the "before Majapahit" period, which is distinguished by its primitive simplicity, or "after Majapahit" which is much more elaborate and detailed.

 

The Balinese initially resisted the arrival of the new religion strongly, however, when the Majapahits first invaded Bali in 1343. Gajah Mada, head of the Majapahit empire, had an extremely tough opponent in the Balinese king, Dalem Bedaulu. The king ruled from Pejeng, now a simple village east of Ubud, and this is where much of the action took place. The king was so stubborn in his resistence that he became known by the Majapahits as "Pig-head". Stories which embellish events related to the king's incredible determination and skill have survived, and he is now known, literally, as the king with the pig's head and magical powers. Gaja Mada eventually overcame the strong king, and has been accepted as a hero and great holy man ever since.

 

Up until the 15th century, the Majapahit kingdom maintained dominance in the area we now know as South East Asia, and Bali was an influential province. As the links between the mother religion and her offshoot in Bali slowly dissolved over time and due to distance, indigenous beliefs resurfaced.

 

European contact with Indonesia originated with Marco Polo's visit in AD 1290, and after this time a demand for spices and Indonesia's other natural resources grew. Travellers from Spain and Portugal then continued to return to Indonesia and visited Bali for the next 200 years, although the difficulty of entering and anchoring in Bali made it a less popular destination.

 

By AD 1600, the Dutch East Indies company had been set up in Java. Bali was declared as "New Holland" by a Dutch Admiral, who was warmly welcomed by the King at the time, Watu Renggong. With the death of this king, though, the seat of power in Klungkung diminished in importance and independent rule was established by local rajas.

 

At around the same time, the Majapahit empire in Java disintegrated completely, and there was a sudden influx of Hindu refugees into Bali. Intellectuals and artists, priests and princes, soldiers and artisans all arrived in Bali with their precious books and records. Bali flourished with the sudden injection of creative ideas and skills, and the culture developed significantly. By the time the 19th century had begun, Bali was still an isolated island relatively unaffected by the west, with its unique ever evolving culture still intact.

 

The British East India Company introduced some opportunities for self-government to Bali in the early 1800s, after Holland's influence decreased as a result of the Napoleonic wars. When the Dutch returned to Indonesia and tried to gain sovereignty of Bali in the early 1840s, trouble flared. After sixty years, a mass suicide of Balinese families finally ended what had developed into an ongoing dispute. Rather than giving in the the Dutch, ceremonial knives were used by the rajas and their families to end their misery and make a proud statement. Holland relented, and Bali survived the immmediate threat of European influence.

 

The quiet period from the early to mid 1900s brought a different type of western influence, though, with a sudden influx of tourists. During this period, foreigners were already being drawn to the exotic beauty of the island and its people. Cruise ships made Bali a regular stopover, and more and more people became intrigued by this endearing paradise. Many visitors also chose to settle on the island at this time, including the famous German painter Walter Spies.

 

Two major incidents interrupted this peaceful period. Firstly, the Japanese invaded and occupied the island, although again the authentic Balinese culture survived. Secondly, when the Dutch tried once more to exert their influence after the war, Indonesia's President Sukarno declared independence in 1945. It took a further four years, before the Dutch finally accepted the authority of the new government, and even after that Indonesia remained unsettled. Bali also suffered from individual disasters, a plague, a period of chronic food shortage, and a volcanic eruption.

 

Bali only opened up to tourists again in the late 1960s, when the new President recognised the value of the island as a tourist destination. Since then it has been heavily promoted for its tourist value, and has also quite naturally acted as a magnet to the many types of tourists who enjoy Bali. Artists, surfers and backpackers; divers, shoppers and adventurers; a whole range of visitors now appreciate the many facets of the Balinese environment and culture.

 

Even on the brink of the 21st century, Bali is proving that the unique spiritual forces which have shaped the island will continue to act as major determining influences well into the future. Every time a small canang offering laden with incense and coloured flowers is laid on the ground, every time a chisel strikes soft wood and carves out the features on a mythological creature, every time a young baby touches the ground for the first time or ashes are offered to the sea… evidence of Bali's living traditions are everywhere, acting as constant reminders of her passion for an authentic existence.

 

If we, as visitors to Bali, can share but a small taste of this passion, our own lives will be enriched. And if we can also give something in return, in the way of respecting these people and their culture and supporting them as they find there way into the future, the benefits will be mutual. Let's make the most of our time in Bali, let's appreciate and enjoy.

 

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